What is a Restricted Property Trust

Big Tax Deductions and a Secure Retirement for Business Owners using a Restricted Property Trust

How successful business owners are putting more money away for Retirement than they ever could with a Traditional Retirement Account

Trusts as a wealth building and wealth preservation tool have been around for centuries.  Every specific trust has a specific purpose for why it is set up and how it is utilized.  There is one that is designed for high income business owners to be able to put away more money for retirement than they possibly could with a traditional retirement plan.  This trust will also allow the business owner to do this on a tax deductible basis.

This also allows the business owner to legally “discriminate” against their current employees or co owners so if they choose; the owner can be the only one who participates in the plan.  This is very different from traditional retirement accounts where most full time employees must be given the opportunity to participate in the retirement plan.

The name of this trust is a “Restricted Property Trust” and is a very powerful tool for the right business owner.  It basically works like this:

  • A successful business owner is allowed to fund from $50,000 (minimum) to millions of dollars per year for at least 5 years into a restricted property trust. We will use $100,000 contributions for our examples
  • Most of this contribution will be tax deductible to the business owner because of the nature of the Restricted Property Trust
  • That contribution will be used to fund a Whole life insurance policy creating cash value and an instant death benefit for the business owner’s estate. If the business owner should die during the initial 5 year period (or subsequent 5 year blocks of time in which the trust operates 10,15, or 20 years) the death benefit finishes off the funding of the trust commitment and the balance of the death benefit  goes to the business owners family
  • The business owner makes a firm commitment to fund the trust for those 5 years with $100,000 per year and if the business owner fails to make that contribution they forfeit all previous contributions to a charity. This creates a chance of loss necessary to make most of these contributions tax deductible.  Needless to say the business owner who sets this up is confident in their income for the trust period and/or they have significant assets in other places they could easily draw on to make these contributions.
  • Depending on the situation about $70,000 of the $100,000 contribution will be tax deductible every year the contribution is made into the trust. Over 10 years this would create $700,000 worth of tax deductions directly off of your businesses income putting hundreds of thousands of dollars in your bank account (depending on your effective tax rate)
  • Also at the end of the 10 years (in this example) you will have more money in your plan in the form of cash value than you put into the plan. Let’s assume you have put in $1,000,000 into the plan over 10 years, you now might have $1,200,000 in cash value inside the plan and the life insurance policy.  The trust is collapsed and you now own the life policy personally along with all the cash and death benefit.  You have also pocketed hundreds of thousands in dollars of cash that you would have paid to Uncle Sam without this unique and powerful structure.

There are some taxes to be paid out of the cash value at the end but the balance of the cash value is all tax free and can be an entirely new tax free income stream for the business owner.

This is not simply a deferred comp plan or is it a traditional retirement account.  It is much more high level than either one of those programs.  Now let’s answer some of the most common questions we receive about this program.

Q: I already have other retirement accounts I am funding, can I still fund this trust in addition to my other accounts?

A: Yes you can.

Q: Can I be a partial owner of my business with partners?  If yes, do my partners have to participate in the program as well?

A: Yes you can be a partial owner of the business and no your partners don’t have to agree to the plan (but don’t be surprised if they want to set this up for themselves as well) and your employees do not share in this benefit at all

Q: How much money do I have to make to be able to qualify for this trust?

A: There is not a specific income level but the minimum contribution to the trust is $50,000 annually for 5 year increments.

Q: if I have the resources can I put in $300,000 or even more a year into the program?

A: Yes

Q: What happens if I can’t make the contribution during that 5 year term?

A: You contributions will be forfeited to a qualified charity

Q:  Why is life insurance a part of this plan?

A: For various tax and trust reasons a properly structured whole life policy is a must for this program to be implemented

Q: If I should die during one of the 5 year trust periods, who gets the death benefit from the life insurance policy?

A: Your estate collects the death benefit during the trust periods and after the trust periods when you take control of the policy after the trust is dissolved

Q: Can I have access to the cash value in the life policy during the trust period?

A: No there is no access to the cash value during the trust period.

Q: I am a salaried employee who makes big income but am issued just a W2 at the end of the year.  Do I qualify to participate in this program?

A: Unfortunately this type of trust is just for business owners or partial business owners.  It is possible to receive a W2 as a salary and own the business as well.  You must own a part of the business to be eligible to participate in this plan.

Q: Because life insurance is included in this plan do I have to qualify physically as well as financially for this program?

A: Yes there will be a physical required to qualify for the underlying life insurance policy.  Most people who use this program are in their 50’s or 60’s and the vast majority get approved physically for the policy.

In closing, a restricted property trust can be a great benefit for the right established business owner with disposable income and/or other assets they can draw upon to fund the trust.  It is not meant for spotty incomes or low asset business owners.  If the business owner is stable and confident in their ability to fund the trust during the trust periods it can be a great tool.

If you would like more information on this program, please visit www.perpetualinsurance.com for a brief presentation and the information on how you can set up a personal consultation to see if this is a fit for your business.

 

4 Wealth Drains Robbing You Blind Each Month

And You Don’t Even Know It

The first and biggest “wealth drain” is taxes.

Our tax system is designed to penalize hourly and salaried workers while rewarding entrepreneurs and business owners. Salaried workers pay taxes based on what they gross, while business owners pay taxes based on what they net. To that end, most people think Fortune 500 companies getting something over on little guys. Keep in mind, you don’t have to be a big business to get great tax advantages. Even startups get huge tax benefits. So rather than complain, maybe you should run a business from your kitchen table

To qualify for tax deductions in that business, the IRS says you must intend to make a profit. When that standard is met, you automatically qualify for dozens of tax deductions that you don’t get as an individual. Most losses and startup expenses can be written off against other income from your job (limits apply, so get a good business CPA to work with you). Realize that nobody else (not even your CPA or tax preparer) cares how much you pay in taxes, so it’s your job to understand how the system work and how to use it effectively.

Losing the Chance at Compound Growth

Another set of huge wealth drains are market losses on investment capital that you control. When a stock or a piece of real estate drops significantly in value, it could take years for you to get back to even. And, of course, there are no guarantees that it will come back during your investment lifetime. The less capital you have invested, the less you can benefit from the power of compounding growth.

If the compounding curve of your money is broken by market losses or premature withdrawals, it has a massive effect on your final pool of wealth. For example, if you were offered a job that lasted only 36 days and you had two choices on the pay plan, which one would you take? (A) You could be paid $5,000 per day at the end of every day, for a total of $180,000. (2) Your second option is to be paid one cent starting on Day One, but your pay would double each day — be compounded by 100 percent — and payable at the end of those 36 days.

If you jumped at the $180,000, you missed the power of true compounding of money. If your coworker doing the same job chose the compounding penny, he wouldn’t be a millionaire. After 36 days … he’d be a filthy rich multimillionaire with a final check of $343,597,384. Obviously, your investments won’t experience such rapid (or consistent) compound growth, but do the math —
the power of the compounding curve is strong over time — if you don’t break it with big losses (which you can’t always control) or withdrawals (which you can).

Money Lost in Fees and Interest to Banks and Financial Companies

The next massive wealth drains we face are interest and fees paid to banks or finance companies. Money-lending has been around for thousands of years, and any business model that’s lasted that long is a winner — for the business. But when you’re on the borrowing side of the transaction, it’s a wealth drain, especially if most of your borrowed money is spent on depreciating assets

Now, people will tell you that if you can borrow money cheap and invest it in something that has a higher rate of return than the interest rate you’re paying, then you’re using leverage properly. That can be true, but those attempting such a move should be aware of the caveats. Try this simple exercise: Add up all the money you’ve paid out over your lifetime in monthly payments. Then compare that total to the amount of money you have saved for retirement and see which one’s bigger. (If you’re willing, we’d love to hear about your results in the comments section below.) Then think about how to be a lender, and not a borrower.

Depreciation of Vehicles and Other Large Assets

Another massive wealth drain comes from the depreciation of cars, boats, equipment, appliances and most other large assets we buy. Most people will lose more money on cars during their lifetimes than they’ll ever save for retirement, let alone all the other depreciating assets they’ll buy. But there’s a way to make money on these items.

Think of your financial life as a big pie. Don’t fall for the old magic trick and focus only on what’s happening to your one slice of the pie (i.e., your investment gains or losses). Instead, pay attention to the whole pie and put a stop to your massive wealth drains.

 

 

How to Win the Financial Battle vs. Your Automobile

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A new car is one of the biggest wealth drains for you and your family. Use these two simple yet powerful tips to take control of this expensive item.

Think in the Long Term (for Models)

Buy the car you want — but only after it is at least two years old, and three would be better. By doing this, you automatically save hundreds of thousands of dollars over your lifetime.

When I was 23, I wanted to buy a nice four-door sedan, and I was drawn to the Cadillac STS. The new model had a base price of more $50,000, and with any kind of little extras the sticker was almost $55,000. I was doing very well at a young age, but I wasn’t doing that well to blow 50 grand on a new car.

I was thumbing through my local paper (yes, this was before the Internet changed everything) and saw an ad for a 2½ year old Cadillac STS for $19,500. The car had less than 40,000 miles on it and came with an extended warranty to 90,000 miles. It was gorgeous, shiny and just serviced.

It was an attractive price since the first owner was eating the depreciation.

According to www.Edmunds.com, the average car will lose 11 percent of its value the second you roll it off the lot and an additional 15 percent to 20 percent the first year you own it. The second-year depreciation (loss) is another 15 percent, for a loss of at least 45 percent over the first two years.

Depreciation is usually calculated off of the base price, not the extras. This could be the sport package that raises the price $10,000 but only gives you $2,000 back after the first year or two. So it’s quite possible to find beautiful cars with manufacturer warranties still in place and pay 35 percent to 50 percent less than the first owner did when purchased new.

I drove that car for four years, had very few out-of-pocket repairs, and sold it for $3,500.

So what kind of deal could you get today? When I was young, one of the dream cars was a Ferrari Testarossa, and its price was around $200,000. You can buy one now for around $50,000, and most don’t have that many miles on them because they’re babied by the owners.

Think in the Short Term (for Loans)

If you finance your auto purchase, you can save a lot of money by keeping the term to no more than 36 months. This builds equity in the car faster and saves on interest.

This might be difficult because the monthly payment is higher than if you finance over six years, and it’s higher than a monthly lease. If you finance $25,000 at 5 percent interest for three years, your monthly payment will be $749.27, and your total payout will be $26,974. If you extend that loan out to six years, your monthly payment drops to $402.62, but your total payout rises to $28,989. That’s $2,015 more out of your pocket to own the car.

Assuming you buy the car with a small down payment, by financing it for six years, your loan pay-down is going at a much slower pace than the depreciation on the vehicle, creating an “underwater” situation on the car almost from the get-go. During the three-year program, you’re paying down the car faster than it’s depreciating, giving you options if you have to sell the vehicle.

If you truly can’t afford that three-year payment, take out a five-year option and send a little extra every month toward the principal to pay it off sooner.

Leasing a newer model looks attractive because the monthly payment is less, but you might not want to do that. I’ll explain why next post, when I offer several other ways to save loads of money when purchasing an automobile.

Believe it or not you might be better off buying your own car rather than funding your 401k or IRA! Learn more at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JjERU7KY16c